REPORT ON
OTTER TRAIL
– TSITSIKAMMA AREA
19 – 26
APRIL, 2001
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This is arguably the most
famous and prestigious hiking trail in South Africa – well known and exposed to
overseas tourists and has an exceptionally long waiting time to get on board.
Keith Ashton, Chairman of the Midlands Hiking Club first made application
almost 2 years ago and were it not for his fabled determination and tenacity
the hike would not likely have happened. A maximum of 12 trailists are allowed
through each day and with a duration of 5 days there are never more than 60
people spread over the 42 kms of the trail.
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Four nights are spent with overnight stops in very
basic rustic huts.
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Eleven club members and one potential new recruit
participated in the experience led by Keith. Trailists were as follows: -
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Keith Ashton – Leader (and
Captain!)
Margaret Ashton – Vice
Captain
Coenraad Vermaak
Vicky Vermaak
Graham Cullinan
Grethe Simkiss
Danny Veness
Merle Brett
Rod Hart
Carolee Thompson
Helen Elkington (recruit
status!)
Peter Wedge (assigned
scribe)
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Carolee is currently nursing in Riyadh, Saudi
Arabia and had only been home for 2 days so she really was chucked in at the
deep end – as indeed was Helen – this being her first major hiking experience.
The other members of the team were generally well-experienced hikers and
familiar with the rigours of overnighting in remote areas.
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Nevertheless most people underestimated the
severity of the hike. Distances covered daily are not great – an average of
just over 8 kms! However what is overlooked is the continuous ascent and
descent of the very rugged terrain to heights of between 150 and 200 metres.
This is all in hindsight of course.
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This is described on a daily basis with records of
experiences good and not so good and whilst the scribes efforts are meant to be
as objective as possible – this is not
really possible. As a participant you inevitably write down what you felt at
the time – albeit with a group balanced view point where possible.
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TRAVELLING
DAY – APRIL 19TH
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Arrangements were made by Keith for a very early
start ex Howick with Keith and Margaret picking up PGW at 04h30 and then on to
Hilton to rendezvous with Coenraad, Vicky andamp; Helen, before heading down to
PMB to pick up Merle, Rod and Carolee and then the long journey through to the
E. Cape. Graham, Grethe andamp; Danny were already down in the area having
travelled earlier.
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The journey to Nature’s Valley – start of the
experience was over 1100 kms and took us well over 14 hours. A tired crew
arrived at Hiker’s Haven in Nature’s Valley at 18h30. The latter is a very
comfortable B andamp; B and backpacker’s resting place. We were accommodated in
the upper area of the house in a large dormitory – but very comfortable. After
freshening up – to the only restaurant in town – Nature’s Valley Restaurant,
pub, shop – everything – and then a long frustrating wait to be served – 2
hours in fact. Coenraad in explode mode by this time. However a promise from
the restaurateur’s wife to do better next time! Back to Hiker’s Haven and
overnight.
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FIRST DAY
– APRIL 20TH
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After a good hearty breakfast served by Hannes –
Manager of Hiker’s Haven, we were all taken to Storms River Mouth in the HH
combi for the start of the Otter Trail.
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All trailists are obliged to take a briefing from
the resident NPB officer. This involves general information about the
topography, wild life, do’s and don’t’s and emphasis on how to cross the
Bloukrans River. There is a video (53 minutes in total – Merle elected to see
all of this) which shows a worst case scenario – crossing at near high tide.
Scary stuff with large waves – women hikers marooned on cliff edges etc., etc.
All of this introduced a high degree of anxiety for Day 4 of the trail. The
trick is to get to the river just before or at low tide. In our case this
necessitated leaving the overnight hut (Day 4) by 04h45 – none of us relishing
this. However a degree of risk adds some piquancy to life and makes the journey
that much more worthwhile.
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The first day is relatively easy and a short
distance so we spent a bit of time within the resort area – buying up last
minute items and also taking the view up the Storm’s River from the suspension
bridge. This is well constructed and quite stable (Keith did find a couple of
design flaws!) and over 75m in length.
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Eventually we got under way just after 12h00. The
first 2 kms are fairly busy with people from the camp allowed to walk as far as
the waterfall. This is quite impressive with a fall of probably 50m into a pool
and thence into the sea. This is the last spot for day hikers and from here
only serious trailists are allowed. There is a fair degree of rock/boulder
hopping for the next 4 kms or so. We arrived at the first overnight stop –
Ngubu Huts – just before 16h00. These are very basic, holding 6 people in 2 x 3
tier bunks. A common loo (with a view) is the only other facility. Water is
available from a rainwater tank from one of the huts.
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We had a nice fire at Hut A – several people
bringing along fresh meat for the first evening meal and enjoying a braai.
Dolphins were seen in the evening just before
dusk. Plenty of red collared sunbirds feeding on the prolific flowering
shrubbery. In our beds by 20h00. A good
first day.
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SECOND
DAY – APRIL 21ST
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Second day of the hike. Weather overcast with mist
which prevailed throughout the day. We had a steep climb from the camp to the
200m contour on the cliff tops and then to Skilderkrans. This is a quartz
outcrop literally sticking out from the cliffs. We all climbed to the top with
dramatic views of the surrounding sea and rocky shore to either side of us. Had
the weather been clear this would have been quite magnificent.
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Later we crossed the Kleinbos River – quite full
and very brown. This is the tannins from the dense bush growing alongside the
river – water is potable.
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On to Blue Bay and a lunch break – swimming being
out of the question with a rough sea running. A lot of further climbing – rough
going with Scott Huts our 2nd overnight stop coming into view in the
mid afternoon. This site is probably one of the best of the trail with a
delightful sheltered bay and shallow fresh water stream running into the bay.
Most of us had a swim – water cold but very invigorating. The ladies took full
advantage with an outdoor hair salon in evidence. Fynbos in the area quite
magnificent.
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A good fire again in the evening at Hut A. We had
the rather unedifying spectacle of Danny drying his rods on a stick – nice
before dinner! Good yarns and stories later.
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THIRD DAY
– APRIL 22ND
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We had a bit of a lie-in today getting underway
after breakfast around 08h30. This was a clear day with quite a lot of the time
spent hugging the cliff tops with superb views. More stiff climbs and descents
with God’s Finger (Group’s name – similar to the one that used to be in
Namibia) and Roman Baths. This was a sea pool at the foot of the cliffs with
what appeared to be a man made bath within the pool itself – although clearly
natural?
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Our first break was at the Elandsbos River – very
pleasant and time to reflect on the magnificent wilderness around us.
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Later a steep descent to the Lottering River with
the tide now coming in quite quickly. We all managed to cross without having to
remove boots, using the rocks as stepping stones but another half an hour would
have been a different story. Graham and Coenraad being very gallant and helping
the ladies over the river.
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We were advised at the start of the trail not to
drink water from the Lottering River, nor the following two streams. There are
several informal settlements upstream and with water borne diseases prevalent
this was clearly good advice.
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After the crossing – another steep climb and then
Oakhurst huts coming into view with a very steep descent down to our third
overnight stay.
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As we were relaxing an NPB officer pitched up
asking for our permits for the trail. This was very encouraging, as clearly
such random inspections must materially help to keep out people who haven’t
bothered to book and then cause problems for pukka trailists.
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We were all now conscious of the following day and
the feared (real or imaginary) Bloukrans crossing. After a good evening meal
and another good camp fire, we retired a little earlier than normal 19h30) with
strict instructions from Keith to be ready to move out the following morning by
04h45 latest.
A somewhat troubled night for most of us.
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FOURTH
DAY – APRIL 23RD
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All of us up by 04h00 to the sound of rain! This
was not what we wanted at all. We put on foul weather gear (those who had it) –
others had to borrow. Carolee, wearing a sheer pink plastic creation (courtesy
of Keith) looked like she was about to go into theatre. Others in various
waterproof (or semi waterproof) outfits set out for the Bloukrans, some 10 kms
ahead, at the appointed hour of 04h45. We had to walk for the first 1½ hours by
torchlight which was hard going. Initially we had a hard climb and then a
slippery track, with extreme care having to be taken until first light. Merle,
who had been struggling a bit after our first short break around 09h00,
suddenly got her 2nd wind (and must have had a double Red Bull
hidden in her back pack) and took off! This was a spark we needed and for about
2 kms we had a good cracking pace. We saw the Bloukrans shortly after and then
another steep descent with arrival at the eastern bank dead on time for low
tide 09h49. This was no surprise to Keith of course, who had planned that we
should arrive at low tide precisely anyway! However full marks to Merle for
chivvying us along for the last 2 or 3 kms.
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We crossed at the preferred “A” route with only
ankle deep water. However within 10-15 minutes after low water the tide had
turned and started to come in quite rapidly.
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On the opposite bank there were clear signs of a
very recent otter spoor which was quite rewarding. We all had a break at this
point with the mood of the party now much more relaxed.
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On to Andre huts – last overnight stop – by 14h30,
and a well earned rest. This had been quite a hard day. A large pile of logs at
the top of the cliffs leading down to Andre huts and clear evidence of where
people had got fed up of carrying fuel and just dumped it on the way down.
These last 2 kms to Andre are very dramatic in terms of scenery.
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Good camp fire at Hut B – for a change!
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All now very relaxed and a good final nights
sleep.
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FIFTH DAY
– APRIL 24TH
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Fifth and final day of the hike. It had rained
again during the night but clear by 07h00. We had a sighting of an otter in the
sea – just off the beach around 08h15 – very exciting. This was really only a
fleeting view but sufficient we felt for a confirmed sighting.
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After a steep climb to the cliffs – very beautiful
and dramatic 5 kms through fynbos. This is almost like walking through a huge
natural garden. The variety of plants and wild flowers is staggering.
Coenraad’s interest is in botany so he must have had a field day today. Then a
sharp delineation of the cliffs to an open beach and Nature’s Valley approx.
1-1,5 kms away. This was a most welcome sight.
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After a mad rush to the showers and bathrooms –
those more thirsty than unduly concerned about personal freshness sank a brace
of welcome beers and then bathed. We all then repaired to the Restaurant again
for bacon and egg butties - most
welcome – and this time served within acceptable time limit!
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As this was the last evening for the majority of
the party we decided to treat ourselves and we all ate at Fish Eagle Creek
restaurant outside Plettenberg Bay. This is a class place and we didn’t mind
waiting (again!) with good company and wine flowing freely.
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After an excellent meal we all said au revoir to
Carolee who was leaving for Cape Town very early the following morning. Danny,
Helen and Rod taking her into Plettenberg Bay to catch the “redeye” Greyhound.
We all then spent a comfortable final night at Hiker’s Haven.
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APRIL 25TH
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After a good breakfast we all went our separate
ways – Coenraad, Vicky andamp; Rod to Gonubie and overnight, for an easy 2-day
journey home. Danny andamp; Helen also electing for this option.
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Keith, Peter, Margaret and Merle to Storms River
Mouth for an easy relaxing day around the camp.
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Worth mentioning was the short trip up the Storms
River by Zenith (rubber duck) for about 1 km. This is an incredible journey –
the cliff walls rise sheer from the water to 150m and once away from the mouth
the water movement is considerably reduced. There is a slightly sinister feel
about the place with the black water from the river, bats cave (thousands
living in this cleft in the rock face of the eastern cliff face) and then the
area opens out to very dense riverine bush. We picked up several blackwater
tubers who wanted a “lift” back to the jetty. This is a 3-hour experience from
about 3-4 kms inland and not for the faint hearted. On the way back we saw a
pair of giant kingfishers, which was very rewarding.
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The weather had worsened and this was the last
trip of the day so we were indeed fortunate.
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After an excellent dinner in the Storms River
restaurant we slept overnight in the Forest Cabins – excellent value for money.
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RETURN
JOURNEY APRIL 26TH
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The long journey home – over 1100 kms and the last
section included diversions, thick mist andamp; rain, so some 15 hours later we
arrived in PMB firstly to drop off Merle and then Keith, Margaret and PGW to
Howick, arriving around 21h00.
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SUMMARY – An exceptional
worthwhile experience. This area of the E/W Cape boundary is unique in its
botanical diversity. The Otter Trail itself should not be undertaken lightly
and you need to be quite fit to complete the 5 day hike.
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A few accolades for members of this superb
experience; -
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Keith – for his usual precise
planning and attention to detail and for putting the whole act together. This
doesn’t just happen – it needs a huge amount of hard work and tenacity to make
it so.
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Coenraad – for his knowledge of
plant life and good stories around the evening camp fires. Also his fire
lighting skills!
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Vicky – for always being
helpful to less experienced members of the party and her general cheery nature.
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Danny – for his sense of humour
and enthusiasm for the trail in general.
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Helen – for rapidly becoming
one of the team and generally putting up with a load of old farts. It can’t
have been easy for her some of the time.
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Merle – for hanging in
throughout the trail. She had a wonky knee but never complained. She also
played a big part in getting us to the Bloukrans River on time.
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Rod – for his energetic
photography and also for getting this onto the club website for us to all enjoy
in double quick time.
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Carolee – for sorting out the
club medical pack and discarding stuff well past its sell by date. Also for her
energy and enthusiasm. I suspect she didn’t mind the rain and mist one bit
after just jetting in from Saudi.
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Margaret – for her great help
during meal times (particularly for the party scribe) and her ability to always
find a good place for ablutions in each overnight camp.
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Graham – for his quiet
determination in tackling anything required to get us from camp to camp and his
help for the ladies in river crossings. One in particular was quite hairy
(river crossing – not lady!).
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Grethe – for her cheery nature
and infectious humour. She always somehow manages to find something funny in
whatever she does or if the going is difficult.
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Great to share this experience with a great team.
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Where do we go next?