NAMIBIA TRIP
July 6 – August 6
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INTRODUCTION – This was a long planned visit through the Midlands Hiking
Club and led and organised by Keith Ashton. We had the following members in the
party starting from Howick: -
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Keith
andamp; Margaret Ashton – Ford Courier 4 x 4 single cab
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Warwick
andamp; Brenda Keating – Nissan Sani 4 x 4 double cab
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Peter
Wedge – riding with Warwick andamp; Brenda
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Campbell
Downie andamp; Lorraine – Toyota Hilux 4 x 4 double cab
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Irene
Morris – riding with Campbell andamp; Lorraine
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Mike
Lewis – was to join the party in Windhoek on 12thJuly
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DETAILS OF VISIT – Daily account of places visited, experiences gained - the
good, bad andamp; ugly!
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DAY 1- THURSDAY, JULY 6TH
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The Initial party assembling at
Keith andamp; Margaret’s house in Howick from 07h30 and getting away by 08h30. Campbell
and party left early with Warwick andamp; Keith in convoy – Warwick towing an
offroad trailer. We got just past Mooi River when the first incident happened –
shredded tyre on Warwick’s trailer. As we were still close to home Warwick
decided to go back to Hilton to pick up two spare tyres. This resulted in a
delay of about 1-3/4 hours. Keith andamp; PGW changed the wheel and then on in
convoy again to Willem Pretorius Game Reserve – near Winburg, Free State,
arriving around 15h00. Huge disappointment at 14h00 to hear that South Africa
had been pipped at the post for the 2006 world cup by Germany. Nobody could
have done more – but why did one member not vote? Willem Pretorius is somewhat
off the beaten track but well worth a visit. There is plenty of game including
gemsbok, sable, eland and mountain reedbuck – also rhino and giraffe.
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There are also numerous “stone
igloos” - for want of a better description. These date back to the 17th
century Sotho people. There are 2 camping areas – Aventura and National Parks Board.
We chose the latter (although the Aventura site is very well equipped with
excellent chalets for an overnight stay, overlooking the Alldam). Campbell and
party were at the Parks Board site – clearly relieved to see us and we had made
arrangements to meet at Sterkfontein Dam lookout site earlier in the day and
when we didn’t arrive he drove on. The campsite is well serviced with very good
ablution facilities.
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Overnight at Willem Pretorius Game
Reserve – very cold around 03h00.
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DAY 2 – FRIDAY, JULY 7TH
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Breakfast at Willem Pretorius and
then on to Kuruman via Noodgezicht. This is an area of extinct volcanic
activity (2300m years ago!) and also was quite heavily glaciated. There is a
large expanse of basalt with clear evidence of glacial scarring so South Africa
has warmed considerably in the interim. The glacial era would have been during
the days of the super continent Godwanaland.
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Difficult to leave business behind
so a big relief to hear that Dell andamp; Lou had finalised matters with Dunlop
Tyres satisfactorily. Also very good news from Uth.
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To Kuruman and the campsite. Again
well serviced and clean. Very cold again at night with heavy frost in the
morning. To a degree the cold was abated by Irene’s stock of ginger wine and a
nectar of indeterminate origin, but very good. Irene now known as the Shebeen
Queen.
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DAY 3 – SATURDAY, JULY 8TH
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The party (majority) decided to have
a cooked breakfast at the local Wimpey and then view the “eye of Kuruman”. This
is a phenomenon of note with geo thermal water (approx. 32° C) supplying a
small lake with 20m L daily. The lake abounds with bluegill and carp – some
very large specimens. The fish clearly enjoy the upwelling of warm water and
stay virtually motionless in the current.
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On to Augrabies via Keimoes, Upington
and Kakamas. Very surprising to see the vast vineyards in this area with
evidence of very new plantings. Some of the roads in the area are incredibly
long and straight. Campbell claimed a stretch of approx. 53 kms. This is vast
panoramic country almost Karoo-like in appearance but well grassed. Arrival at
Augrabies (PGW, Warwick andamp; Brenda) around 15h00 with the other members
arriving around 16h30-17h00. Keith andamp; Campbell had diverted to Moffat’s
Mission outside Kuruman. This marks the pioneering work of Moffatt, who was a
missionary and a Scot and friend/mentor? of Livingstone.
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Nice braai in the evening at
Augrabies – PGW now Fire Control with Brenda appointed Chief Negotiator(!),
having managed to get back around R200 from the National Parks Board – we had
only used 2 of 4 pre-booked and paid for sites -–with pensioners rates claimed!
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First overnight at Augrabies.
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DAY 4 – SUNDAY, JULY 9TH
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Easy day - with viewing of the Falls
– magnificent. Evidence of the recent very heavy floods in the N. Cape with flotsam
at least 10-15m above the normal level of the river. Augrabies is a very nice
site with full facilities – and a good campsite. A small party comprising
Campbell, Lorraine, Irene andamp; PGW to Moon Rock at sunset for incredible views
of the surrounding countryside and the canyon. Moon Rock is a sort of mini
Ayers Rock with ever changing hues as the sun sets.
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Potjie in the evening (PGW
concoction) – Lorraine now appointed as Chief Scavenger – good at spotting fire
wood left behind on vacated sites! Last night at Augrabies.
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DAY 5 – MONDAY, JULY 10TH
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Tents packed up early and on the
road by 07h15 for the long drive to Mariental (approx. 800 kms). Border
crossing at Nakop and then the incredibly straight roads with almost endless
vistas of golden grassland broken by low mountain ranges between Karasberg and
Grunaii. Quite awe-inspiring. Campbell, Lorraine andamp; Irene went into
Keetmanshoop to see a church with a “living pulpit”. This started life in the
open air with a tree trunk for the sermons by the Lutheran clerics. The church
was then built around the “pulpit”.
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Then very flat country to Mariental,
with the almost ever present extinct volcano of Brukkaros to our left. This
rises about 700m from the plains and you see it for 80 kms or so. This site was
used by the Smithsonian Institute of Washington to observe the sun about 50-60
years ago.
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To Hardap Dam resort for an
overnight stay. Hardap apparently means woman’s breast in Nama (?) – although
not too many of the low hills gave this impression. The site is well serviced
with probably 60 – 70 chalets and a restaurant perched high over the dam. The
dam itself is very big and holds back water from the Fish River. However the
area has a desolate feel about it. Quite appealing in a way.
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A long day with almost 800 kms of
driving.
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DAY 6 – TUESDAY, JULY 11TH
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On to Windhoek via Rehoboth. This
town is the home of the Baster people who retain a sort of limited independence
from the main Government of Namibia i.e., they elect their own chief and have
certain specific laws which relate to their own community. The Reho Spa – very
difficult to find – squirrelled away in the dusty skid row part of town – is
very clean and well organised. This is a geo thermal bath with temps around
37-38°C and with a large cold water bath outside. Prices at N$7 are remarkably
cheap. PGW also managed to make a call to Lou from here on the cell – good
reception but this seems to be limited to the main towns. The main arterial
road, the B1, doesn’t have full coverage. On to Windhoek – outskirts looked
very clean - and the Daan Viljoen Game Reserve- Warwick picking up an
unwarranted speeding fine just outside town. A Golf had overtaken us at high
speed just at the register point and we were “caught”. However we were not
shown the speed display and the ticket wasn’t signed, so a bit academic.
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Daan Viljoen is a very attractive
reserve – the camping and chalet sites near the small dam are superbly placed.
Nice kind of gemsbok on the way in and plenty of bird life on the dam – grey
heron, cormorant, squacco heron and rock kestrel. Brenda saw him take a small
vole or similar.
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Very cold at night – Warwick andamp;
Campbell recorded –3°C but Windhoek is situated at 1650m with Daan Viljoen
probably another 150m higher. The restaurant, which looks attractive, has
curiously short hours. Dinner is from 18h00 – 19h30! Good views of Windhoek at
night from here.
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Our first overnight at Daan Viljoen.
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DAY 7 – WEDNESDAY, JULY 12TH
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Early morning walk and a thaw out by
08h30. Quite a lot of frost early on. Warwick andamp; Brenda into Windhoek for
supplies , Lorraine andamp; Campbell deciding to have an easy day.
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PGW, Keith andamp; Margaret to the
International Airport (Windhoek has 2 – the domestic airport, Eros, is very
conveniently placed) about 40 kms out of town, to pick up Mike L. Mike looking
well and forward to the Namibian experience. We did some shopping in Windhoek –
big new shopping mall with all the usual retailers. Midas, close by, have an extremely comprehensive stock of quality
camping gear – a bit expensive but clearly for the international tourist. Lunch
at a quite pleasant German restaurant in the mall. Windhoek unfortunately seems
to have lost some of it’s German appeal with the advent of a lot of new
commercial storey blocks etc., although we didn’t really explore. A very clean
well ordered feel about the city however. Back to Daan Viljoen to introduce
Mike to the rest of the party, and pleasant braai in the evening. Another very
cold night, -3° to -4°C.
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Last night at Daan Viljoen.
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DAY 8 – THURSDAY, JULY 13TH
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Early striking of camp by 08h30 and
then on to Etosha. Mike getting a good signal through to Barbara in UK and PGW
in contact with Lou – business going fairly smoothly with a lot likely to break
during July (we hope!). Through Okahandja, about 70 kms north of Windhoek, and
then interesting country till Otjiwarongo – two almost identical peaks referred
to as ……………. (in Herero – buttocks! – very appropriate). Brief stop in
Otjiwarongo (clean little town) for Mike to pick up some cutlery. Arrival in
Etosha – Okakuejo Camp mid-afternoon. Good site, close to the water hole. Braai
again and excellent night viewing of about 60 elephant at the hole. This is a
bit over the top I think, with floodlights and probably 100 - 150 people
viewing but nonetheless a very rewarding experience.
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First night at Okakuejo camp – much
warmer and first really good nights sleep for PGW.
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DAY 9 – FRIDAY JULY 14TH
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Early morning drive for all of us.
PGW andamp; FML with Warwick andamp; Brenda. Lioness sighted (collared). Plenty of
antelope including gemsbok and a lone steenbok – beautiful little animal. Bird
life prolific – first sighting (PGW) of Greater Kestrel – also Black Korhaan
and several Kori Bustards/Secretary birds. Rest up in the afternoon, with a
swim – pool cold but invigorating. Plenty of overseas tourists with several
Safari Tour operators – vehicles of all shapes andamp; sizes (also tourists!). We
all had a view from the tower (about 35m) with splendid views all round. The
whole team decided to eat in the restaurant – very good buffet at N$60 per head
– very reasonable. Last night at Okakuejo.
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DAY 10 – SATURDAY, JULY 15TH
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Drive to Namatoni – approx. 140 kms
with a lunch time stop at Halali Camp. This was a game viewing day. Very large
herds of red hartebeeste, zebra (both types), springbok and the black faced
impala which is only found in Etosha. Nice sighting of a big lion – this one
had very dark colouring – apparently typical of the Kalahari type. The Etosha
lion population has a very good genetic line and some are used for breeding to
introduce new lines into existing populations elsewhere. Many sightings of the
Kori Bustard – I personally have only seen them singly and in the Kruger. Here
we saw up to 5 birds at a time – including several in rare flight.
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To Namatoni and overnight. This is a
very arid camp with grassed areas – much to our relief after the stony hard
ground of Okakuejo. PGW andamp; FML having a beef potjie (FML keeping up his
usual watchful eye for anything too exotic going in to the pot!) – rest of the
people having a braai. Full moon and in this type of country you can literally
read by it.
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DAY 11 – SUNDAY, JULY 16TH
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Early morning drive with Warwick,
Brenda, PGW, FML andamp; Irene. Some views of the pan are quite awesome – it’s
almost like looking out at a huge sandy bay with a low rising beach(which is
really what it is). Sighting of African wild cat which was a first for most of
us. Keith andamp; Margaret, Campbell andamp; Lorraine doing their own drives, the
latter being well rewarded with a sighting of 3 lion. The old German Fort houses
guests in very comfortable accommodation. Interesting small museum in the
building, worth seeing.
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Braai in the evening and last night
at Namatoni.
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DAY 12 – MONDAY, JULY 17TH
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Early start and last communication
with Dell andamp; Lou for probably 1 week. On to Ruacana and a nice camp site on
the bank of the Cunene. Since the building of the hydro electric power station
the Falls, certainly in winter, are very sparse. Nonetheless, the gorge and
surrounding scenery is quite magnificent. The border fence between Angola and
Namibia is poorly maintained and its easy to step into Angola (which we did).
However this is hazardous as clearly there are still old land mines around and
you would be foolish in the extreme to try a hike.
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The border post dramatically shows
the difference in prosperity of the 2 countries. On the Angolan side the
buildings are collapsed and decrepit – even the flag is tattered. Namibia looks
First World by comparison.
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Very nice camp fire in the evening.
Again a brilliant full moon. The river almost looks luminescent with a greenish
almost ethereal light. Quite mysterious and quiet.
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Overnight at Ruacana. The site is
run by Christo and Marta (?). They weren’t there but they are adding on and it
will eventually be very pleasant.
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DAY 13 – TUESDAY, JULY 18TH
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Early start for the journey to Epupa
Falls. We had decided to try the river road and this is hard going although
passable to the Cunene River Lodge. This is a very nice upmarket camp with
well-equipped chalets (R250/night per couple including breakfast), restaurant
and bar. Also the camping site is very well situated and catered for. It took
us 1½ hours to do 37 kms and we were advised to go inland for the remaining
journey to Epupa. This is about 150 kms and took us 4 hours but the remaining
100 on the river route would have taken at least 8 hours and with fuel a real
problem, we went for the easier option. Brenda identified an Auger Buzzard
which was a first (at least for PGW).
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Arrival early afternoon at Omarunga
site and then a general view of the Falls area. Epupa Falls itself is
magnificent and well worth the effort to get there. (Thanks to Tony andamp; Dell
for strongly recommending we do this.) Several of us then retired to the bar –
Omarunga has a camping site and chalets – for a well-earned Tafel (good
Swakopmund beer) and a general chat with some fellow travellers. Three French
people from Lyon had done the full river road and it had taken them 9 hours in
total for 130 kms, so hard going. Some Kiwi girls passing through also. Very
pleasant.
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Nice braai and first overnight at
Epupa – PGW going for a midnight stroll and getting locked out of the camp.
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DAY 14 – WEDNESDAY, JULY 19TH
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Early walk up the river – and then
Warwick, Keith, Margaret andamp; PGW deciding to climb one of the peaks about 2
kms downstream. This was a heavy haul – loose scree and plenty of rock climbing
but the view from the summit was superb with a view of the Cunene probably 20
kms back from the falls. We were not the first – a small cairn was on top of
the summit. We “named” this Keating Peak!
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Easy afternoon (earned!) – plenty of
small striped tree squirrels around – only found in Northern Namibia
apparently.
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Last night (regrettably) at Epupa.
We all felt that another day at least would have benefited us – from both a
rest and exploration. There is talk of further damming of the river upstream
and if this happens – Epupa Falls will effectively disappear.
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DAY 15 – THURSDAY, JULY 20TH
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Turning for home with Epupa being
the most northerly point of the trip. The roads are not bad but you really
cannot expect to do better than an average of 35-40 kms/hour. Arrival in Opuwo – the Himba capital. This
is a 1 horse dusty little place but you can get most supplies. A very nice
lodge in evidence for those who want to use the town to explore Himba
territory.
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To Sesfontein (about 320 kms from
Epupa) for an overnight stay at Fort Sesfontein. This has a campsite but
somewhat run down. We were charged R55/person/night with very limited
facilities. The manager (christened Count von Rippenoff by Brenda!) had a
somewhat distant air about him – take it or leave it. However the lodge itself
was well equipped and nice to have to have a drink in the bar.
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The countryside around Sesfontein is
surprisingly green and very pleasant with some superb mountain backdrops in the
distance. Overnight at Sesfontein.
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DAY 16 – FRIDAY, JULY 21ST
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From Sesfontein to Khorixas through
some quite desolate looking country – stark but beautiful in a curious way.
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We “called in” at Twyfelfontein.
This is a large massif with probably one of the largest collection of Khoisan
rock carvings in Africa. These reputedly date back 6000 years and are very
impressive and lifelike. The site is quite well looked after and the guide, a
young Damara girl, quite well informed.
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Onward to Khorixas with another stop
at the Nuewe petrified forest”! This is another site, probably 10 kms or
so from the official site. However they have here a superb specimen of a
petrified trunk. Apparently the main site has suffered vandalism and theft over
the years.
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Arrival in Khorixas around 17h00 and
overnight at the camp site. Quite well equipped and again a nice bar with a
very genial barman – King – a Muhammad Ali look alike!
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DAY 17 – SATURDAY, JULY 22ND
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Good gravel roads to the coast with
a fuel and supply stop at Henties Bay – surprisingly large community I thought
- and then to Cape Cross seal colony. This also marks Diego Cao landfall in the
15th century. The seal colony is huge – apparently 80-100,000 or
more. This is a spectacular site but with a pretty strong smell of fish oil,
seal excreta etc. Not entirely unpleasant but over powering should we say.
Weather now cool to chilly with cloud banks over the South Atlantic.
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On to Swakopmund which is a complete
surprise arriving from the desolation of a desert environment. This is a
sophisticated town with a good ambience. A very nice camping site – municipal
area – full marks to Lonely Planet – there are grassed sites with very nice
individual ablutions per site. We all decided to eat out at Die Kelder. This
was recommended by the Municipal site lady. Very good meal in an excellent
atmosphere.
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First night in Swakopmund.
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DAY 18 – SUNDAY, JULY 23RD
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Relaxed day in Swakopmund and an
opportunity to explore the town on an individual basis. Although chilly and
overcast its most pleasant with some fine shops and restaurants. The town has a
population of around 25,000 and it’s noticeable (Warwick’s comment) that
there’s a lot more English being spoken than a few years ago when German and
then Afrikaans was the order of the day. Several seasoned travellers on our
site with a German couple having brought down an ex-army 5-ton vehicle –
superbly equipped – they were on their way to Kenya, but slowly. About 8 – 12
months they said – lovely! Coffee at Anton’s late morning. This is a “must do”
thing. You can almost imagine you’re in a German town. Very good feeling. Nice
evening, potjie and braai and second night in Swakopmund.
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DAY 19 – MONDAY, JULY 24TH
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Drive to Walvis Bay in the morning –
about 35 kms away. Walvis Bay is not as attractive a town as Swakopmund but
certainly not without charm, particularly at the Lagoon end of town with some
very attractive properties. The Lagoon area near the salt works is rich in bird
life – flamingos (greater andamp; lesser), Caspian Terns, Stints, Pelicans – a
real bird lovers paradise.
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The “road” to Sandwich Harbour,
which has an even more prolific bird life, was not recommended – 3-4 hours for
55 kms with a strong possibility of either getting lost or stuck so we listened
and came back to Swakopmund for a final easy afternoon and then Campbell,
Lorraine, Irene andamp; PGW to the Brauhaus for a real German meal – best beer of
the trip – Hansa unfiltered. Rest of party braaing at the campsite.
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Final overnight at Swakopmund.
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DAY 20 – TUESDAY, JULY 25TH
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To Sesriem andamp; Sossusvlei through
the Namib. The Kuiseb River area is quite magnificent with a surprising number
of plants and trees. The Namib itself, oldest desert on earth, has some quite
large areas of plains, grassland – albeit sparse. Arrival at Sesriem around
13h30 with a very strong wind in evidence. This made putting up tents very
difficult. The drive to Sossusvlei gets increasingly spectacular with the vlei
itself holding quite a lot of water. Several of us ascended one of the main dunes
for an amazing site of razor sharp dune ridges, colours from silvery grey to
purple, which literally change by the minute as the sun sets. This is a
photographers paradise.
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The “race” back to camp – they shut
the gates at sunset or just after and then a rather unpleasant evening and
night with the wind increasing in force with gusts probably 80 kms/hour and
more. It actually got stronger through the night.
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DAY 21 – WEDNESDAY, JULY 26TH
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A quick breakfast and then breaking
camp in an almost hurricane! Then to the Sessriem Canyon (hence the English
equivalent of “6 thongs” to get water) and a quick walk to the water hole. This
is a very narrow deep gorge with evidence of sea life in the stratification at
around the 20m level below the surface. This is a real lunar landscape.
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A brief stop at Duwisib Castle. This
is quite incongruous – a German Schloss in the desert. It was built around 1909
and photos show real colonial living. It fell into disrepair but has now been
restored and is well worth a visit.
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Campbell had a puncture (4th
of the trip so far – score card: Warwick x 2, Keith x 1, Campbell x 1) and then
to Helmeringhausen (1 x hotel, 1 x store, 1 x garage) for an attempted repair.
Unfortunately the tyre was too badly damaged – some indecision as to where to
stay the night with an eventual agreement on the tiny settlement of Seeheim –
about 40 kms from Keetmanshoop. This turned out to be a real find. A couple
from the E. Cape had bought the hotel in a derelict state and have built it up
into a rustic, quaint but very comfortable 10 room hotel. We camped overnight
and sampled Tafel again in the bar. Merinda – lady of the house – is a
taxidermist and they also have a game farm.
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DAY 22 – THURSDAY, JULY 27TH
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At R20/head for an English breakfast
at the Seeheim hotel we had to go for it! Then on to Ai-Ais – a good gravel
road with about a 2 hour run. Ai-Ais resort was almost completely devastated in
April/May with massive flooding, so the site is now a work camp. However the
conservation authorities are working hard to restore it and by year end it
should be back to the way it was. However to re-grass the camping area will
take time. Campbell had to go into Keetmanshoop for a new tyre – R1400 – so a
costly experience.
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An opportunity during the afternoon
to relax and prepare for the 5-day Canyon hike ahead of us.
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DAY 23 – FRIDAY, JULY 28TH
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Five hopefuls – Keith, Margaret,
Campbell, Lorraine andamp; PGW, piled into 2 of the vehicles for the journey to
Hobas – start of the Canyon hike. All a bit apprehensive. We started the
descent into the Canyon at 09h30, reaching the bottom at 12h00 – quite slow but
parts of the downward climb are quite treacherous. We passed a party from the
E. Cape on the way down. Very hot by 13h00 – Campbell measured 36°C so we all
lay up for lunch. By 16h15 we felt it was time to camp although we’d probably
only covered 7 kms by this time. The camp area was a nice spot by the river
with a sandy bank. The river water was OK to drink although slightly saline –
makes excellent tea.
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First night in the Canyon, in the
open – night sky phenomenal.
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DAY 24 – SATURDAY, JULY 29TH
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PGW 60 today! A bit weird to hear
the strains of HBTY coming off the Canyon walls at 06h15. We passed a party of
farmers wives a little later – all from the Graaf Reinet area – 12 in all.
Another birthday rendition and chocolate bar and a hug from a rather buxom
blonde – lovely! Keith reckoned I’d have been ravished if I’d been on my own –
Dream On!
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Boulder section quite difficult
after Quartz Figures landmark. On to Palm Springs – sulphurous geothermal water
around 60°C (probably H²S?) with a strong smell. Not the place to camp so on
for another 2 kms again by the river. Cabernet with dinner and some Ballantines
for birthday treat. Lorraine somehow had conjured up some cake and a candle.
Great stuff. We all slept better on this 2nd night in the Canyon.
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DAY 25 – SUNDAY, JULY 30TH
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Good early start allowing us to put
about 11 kms behind us by 11h30 and then the usual 1½-hour lay up during the
hot part of the day. Not difficult to understand why the Canyon is closed
between October to March, midday temps must exceed 45°C. Wild horses by the
river. These may be an offshoot herd from the original German horses of the
Schutztruppe in the early 1900’s? Plenty of Zebra droppings – presumably
Hartmann’s mountain zebra – but no sightings of the zebra themselves.
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Campbell andamp; Lorraine setting a
good pace in the afternoon. We camped on the only sandy area in sight but well
away from the river. It was now late and Keith andamp; PGW getting water over a
large boulder field. Quite precarious in the dark and not to be recommended.
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Third night in the Canyon. Shooting
stars quite prolific if you watch the night sky for 15-20 minutes or so.
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DAY 26 – MONDAY, JULY 31ST
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Good early start at 06h45 – Leopard
spoor seen by the first short cut (around 4-5 kms). Good distance made during
the day – just past the 70 kms mark leaving us around 18 kms for the last day.
Supplies now dwindling – but packs getting lighter. On average you need about
15kgs of supplies incl. clothing. We were drinking up to 5-L of water per day
so if the river isn’t running, which can be the case, you would have a very
difficult time.
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Nice camp by the river on a good
sandy area with nice rock pools for a good bathe.
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Last night in the canyon.
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DAY 27 – TUESDAY, AUGUST 1ST
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Good early start again and arrival
at the last short cut (or so we thought) by 08h30. This was a serious mistake –
we took a dry riverbed as the short cut which led us into the mountains heading
north (not south). All in all we lost 3 hours by the time we got back to the
river again. This meant we now had about 15kms to go to get “home” with the
time now 11h30. We took a short lunch and decided to walk through the heat of
the day – very hot and tiring. We came across the farmers wives party just
disappearing over rocks on the other side of the river to the genuine short
cut, which we took. Arrival in camp at Ai-Ais by 16h30 – which surprised us as
we had obviously made very good progress (route marching almost).
andnbsp;
Nice reception by Brenda, Warwick,
Mike andamp; Irene and then a well-earned pint before showering (bliss!) and then
Mike’s potjie. Excellent – his first red meat effort, and then a gradual
winding down by a nice fire. (We had fires every night in the Canyon – plenty
of driftwood around.)
andnbsp;
Warwick, Brenda, Mike and Irene had
seen quite a lot of the area in the vicinity of the camp during our absence.
Warwick climbing the mountain opposite the camp in the very creditable time of 45 minutes.
andnbsp;
Never thought we would relish the
stretcher beds – good nights sleep.
andnbsp;
andnbsp;
DAY 28 – WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 2ND
andnbsp;
Relaxing day for the Canyon party
(at least Lorraine, Campbell andamp; PGW) – the rest off on a drive and general
exploration until lunchtime. Most of the afternoon spent cleaning hiking kit
and then a good soak in the hot pools. There are a series of jacuzzis and water
jets, which pummel you – very therapeutic – almost chiropractic! Keith’s
birthday today so we all went to the restaurant for celebratory meal. Choice
somewhat limited but quality good. Last campfire and then final night at
Ai-Ais. Warwick, Brenda, Irene and Mike had had 7 nights altogether here.
andnbsp;
DAY 29 – THURSDAY, AUGUST 3RD
andnbsp;
We woke up early to the sound of
light rain! In Namibia! It obviously has to sometime. Very early camp strike
and on the road by 07h15. Some quite heavy rain clouds just outside Ai-Ais,
which gives a different colour and texture to the landscape. The golden
grasslands have a prairie look about them with broken cloud. Across the border
at Ariamsvlei and on towards Kimberley via Upington.
andnbsp;
We stopped briefly at Griquastad
with the thought of staying over – however the Caravan Park had been taken over
by builders and the only B andamp; B was very basic. We still had time to get to
Kimberley and we stayed over at the Big Hole Caravan Park. This has first class
ablution facilities and dirt cheap –R20 per tent and R9/person! PGW andamp; Mike
eating out at the Savoy Hotel (where else!). Very good value. This was Mike’s
last night before flying home the next day. A long day in the saddle for
everyone – particularly the drivers! Cold night with frost again.
andnbsp;
DAY 30 – FRIDAY, AUGUST 4TH
andnbsp;
Leisurely start to the day with the
opportunity of a hot bath – first in a month(!) but also necessary to get warm
– then an hour or so at the Big Hole and Mine Museum. PGW can now legitimately
claim pensioners rates. This is very well displayed and well worth a visit. All
back to the Savoy where Mike had managed tea/coffee and cakes, and then au
revoir to Mike – he was flying from Kimberley to JNB in the afternoon and
overnight to Frankfurt andamp; Manchester.
Rest of the party on to Lesotho via Bloemfontein. We got as far as
Ficksburg by 16h30 and camped in the Caravan Park. Nice braai with wood
salvaged from the site, and overnight. This proved to be the coldest night of
the trip. None of us slept. Warwick reported –10°C outside the tent. Lorraine
andamp; Campbell had frozen face cloths inside the tent!
andnbsp;
DAY 34 – SATURDAY, AUGUST 5TH
andnbsp;
Through the border post at Ficksburg
and on to Katse Dam, on the new road. This is a magnificent engineering
achievement with spectacular views and very steep gradients. Lots of ice and
some powdery snow at the top of the first pass at 3040m. On to Mokotlong, with
another 3000m pass – roads quite good but somewhat unnerving drops into space
on the open side. How do these Basutho children manage to stave off the bitter
winter weather wearing only a pair of underrods and a tatty blanket?
andnbsp;
We were unable to go over the Katse
Dam wall as you need a permit but you get a view of the wall from the river.
This is the Orange River – known locally as the Senqu River. Campbell now had a
problem with his brakes – loss of pressure – so we took the last 10-15 kms very
easy.
andnbsp;
To the top of Sani Pass (3240m) and
then a short descent to Sani Top Chalet at 2873m. Mine host, Jonathon, was
extremely helpful. The hotel was full but he arranged for us to sleep in the
dining room – after dinner of course! Dinner at R35 a head was very hearty and
a fitting finale to the trip. No tents!
andnbsp;
Last night indoors – did we cheat – No!
andnbsp;
DAY 32 – SUNDAY, AUGUST 6TH
andnbsp;
Breakfast at Sani Top Chalet and
then the journey home down the pass. Keith and Margaret deciding to roam around
for a while and have lunch at Sani Top. A huge frozen waterfall just below the
start – very impressive – it will be there for another 6 weeks at least. Home
via Underberg and back in Howick courtesy of Warwick andamp; Brenda by 13h30.
andnbsp;
andnbsp;
A memorable trip over a long period-
although necessary for the distances we had planned to cover. Namibia is a vast
country with an amazing array of sights and experiences to offer. The high
points I think for all of us were Etosha, Epupa, Swakopmund and the Namib
itself – not necessarily in that order. The Fish River Canyon was an awesome experience
– true wilderness but not to be undertaken lightly. The journey through Lesotho
right at the end of the trip was the cherry on top.
andnbsp;
As a group of nine we all got on
extremely well together being like minded in terms of travel and wild life
enjoyment.
andnbsp;
I think that the following
acknowledgements are also necessary in terms of input of each individual on the
trip: -
andnbsp;
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Keith for his very precise preplanning
and efforts in getting the whole act together – without a plan you don’t know
where you’re going.
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Warwick for his overall experience in
offroading and general guidance when things not always went to plan – as they
often don’t.
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Campbell for his cheerful disposition and
general storytelling around the campfires.
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Mike for his fire making and braai skills.
He also kept our supplies (fresh supplies particularly) on track. One of the
grumpy old men! Guess who was t’ other? Also for his effort in joining the
party from England. Not easy to come in “cold”. He quickly became a member of the team.
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Brenda for her excellent knowledge of
birds andamp; wildlife generally. Also for being an enthusiastic member of the
after dinner choir and her not inconsiderable negotiation skills.
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Lorraine for her ability to find combustible
material at the drop of a hat. Also for her courage in eventually going for the
Canyon hike. I suspect at the end she quite enjoyed it.
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
Margaret for her endless supply of biscuits
and also keeping Keith on track with the daily loading/unloading of the Ford
Courier. This was a mission to the observers!
§andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;andnbsp;
and
last, but far from least, Irene for
her good humour and enthusiasm for all we saw and did – she also wanted to see
more of everything. I believe she could have done a 2nd lap! Also
for her supplies of the ginger brew.
andnbsp;
Finally, this was a very ambitious
plan – well executed and enthusiastically supported by all – here’s to the next
one.
andnbsp;
P.G.W.
andnbsp;
Note! The notes, thoughts, opinions are as I saw
things. People may not necessarily agree but I have tried to be as objective as
possible. Apologies for any events or experiences, which may have been omitted.
andnbsp;
andnbsp;
andnbsp;
andnbsp;
ETOSHA greater
kestrel
kori
bustard
black
korhaan
scarlet
breasted shrike
tawny
eagle
andnbsp;
EPUPA auger buzzard
andnbsp;
SOUTHERN NAMIBIA pygmy falcon
andnbsp;
WALVIS BAY avocet
caspian tern
turnstone
common stint
hartlaub’s gull
lesser flamingo
greater flamingo
white pelican
black backed gull
andnbsp;
LESOTHO lammergeyer
orange
breasted rock jumper
rock
bunting
bald ibis